TURNING HEADS IN DEVON

It’s the house car, polished and ready to go, that says hold on a minute, this place has style. The vehicle, polished as a mirror, is a black Porsche Taycan 4S. It is branded for Lympstone Manor in England’s idyllic Devon countryside.

CHARISMATIC CAINES

The 27-room country house resort is owned and run on a hands-on basis by charismatic celeb chef Michael Caines. He'd gained many Michelin stars working for others, he took a deep breath and went solo. With the help of some of the hordes of Caines' culinary fans, all with stars in their eyes, he found the long-time two-floor home of the Baring family. He spent three years metamorphosising it, re-naming it after the local village and adding not only additional bedrooms but, away from the madding crowd, half a dozen double-size shepherds’ huts, full every night with excited kids.

JUST LIKE FINE WINE

The result is a 28-acre estate overlooking the Exe Estuary, 20 minutes’ drive from Exeter Airport – one stop from the USA, change planes in Dublin to do immigration. Now most of those acres are dotted with unique sculptures, curated carefully for the hotel. In 2018, eleven acres, on a gentle slope, were planted with a total of 17,500 vine buds, a mix of Chardonnay, Meunier and Pinot Noir. Lympstone Manor is already producing wine, sparkling and still, and award-winning.

PASSION FOR PERFECTION

Michael Caines strides around his estate, explaining how buds he bought blossom in no time to shoots, and fully-producing vines. He shows off a pale green vine-design wrought-iron bespoke gate at the entrance to the vineyard. Nonstop gently excited pattern switches to commissioned pieces for the hotel’s interiors (he’s as passionate about smooth woodwork as wine production).

FLY HIGH IN LUXURY

Each bedroom of this Relais & Châteaux gem is named for a local bird. Kingfisher, upstairs with strategic views down to the Exe, has three near-lifesize Kingfisher watercolours, one gold-framed in three parts. The bathtub, a crystal chandelier overhead, is by the main windows, better for that view. Think of any detail, say fresh milk for wake-up tea, and it’s there – but they offer to bring a tea tray, anyway.

CULINARY ARTISTRY 

Ah sustenance. This is the bait for first timers. Hope to see Michael Caines MBE but at least savour his food. Three adjacent dining rooms for more privacy, putty and watery blue walls, and art everywhere. Leave it to the pros and you’ll go ‘tasting’ rather than à la carte.

SAVOURING SEVEN COURSES

Perhaps Estuary tasting, seven exquisite courses of regional produce. You may kick off with local Lyme Bay scallop ceviche, tiny bits of avocado, grapefruit, Exmoor caviar and citrus vinaigrette – paired with a Japanese wine, 2022 Koshu Kayagatake, Grace. Later, braised Cornish turbot comes with white asparagus and the estate’s own 2020 Pinot Noir Lympstone Manor Estate Triassic. If you want really simple, dine in the all-glass Pool House to a background of children’s chatter.

A CELEBRITY THAT COOKS

Unlike many in the cadre of celebrity status, Michael Caines actually cooks. He’s based in the main kitchen, popping out to see his guests and finish the philosophical prophecy he was propounding before slipping to a stove to finish John Dory’s langoustine bisque, to be paired with 2022 Swartland Chenin Blanc Blend, Mullineux, Old Vines White.

CELEBRATION OF SPEED

All this and with only one arm (the perennial petrolhead lost the other one in a crash at the age of 25). Get him on to cars and he never stops. In ten days’ time, on 10th July, he hosts his now-annual Celebration of Speed. Porsches, and Ferraris, Lamborghinis and McLarens strut their stuff on the yoga lawn where a significant spa will go – soon, next to the heated outdoor pool and the astroturf tennis court. There’s a charity gala (only four courses) the evening before the celebration, and, on the night itself, a rock concert with DJ Gok Wan and headliners The Feeling.

A TALE OF LEGACY

Sometime, goodness knows when, this livewire drives home along Devon’s famously twisting lanes to play with his little daughter Isabeau. His sensationally smooth sparkling rosé is named for her. The passionate owner of Lympstone Manor Hotel, Restaurant and Vineyard never stops.